Cushion and princess cuts get confused constantly, and it is easy to see why: both are broadly square, both sparkle hard, and both sit in the same part of the market. But they are cut differently, they wear differently, and they do not cost the same. Here is the plain-English difference, plus a straight answer on which is more expensive.

The short answer on price

Compare two diamonds of the same carat weight, colour and clarity and the cushion cut is normally the more expensive of the two. Princess cuts are usually the better value per carat.

That is the general rule. It is not absolute — a superbly cut princess from a top-grade rough can outprice a mediocre cushion — but if you are budgeting, expect to pay a little more for the cushion.

Why the cushion costs more

More of the rough crystal is lost. Diamonds start as irregular rough crystals that must be sawn and polished. A princess cut is essentially an inverted pyramid with a square top, which fits the natural shape of a common rough crystal extremely efficiently. Very little is wasted. A cushion, with its rounded corners and softly curved sides, requires more material to be cut away. Waste is paid for by whoever buys the finished stone.

More cutting work. Those rounded corners and gently bowed sides take longer to shape and polish than four straight edges and four sharp corners.

Demand. Cushion cuts have been strongly in fashion for years, particularly the “crushed ice” style with its glittery interior. Princess cuts peaked in popularity somewhat earlier. Shapes that are in demand hold their price per carat.

What each shape actually is

Cushion cut

A square or slightly rectangular shape with rounded corners and softly curved sides — like a pillow, which is where the name comes from. It is a brilliant cut, meaning it uses many small triangular and kite-shaped facets to bounce light around and throw it back at your eye.

Cushions come in two broad interior styles. Crushed ice cushions look like a glass of shaved ice: hundreds of tiny sparkles moving at once. Chunky or antique cushions have larger, bolder facets that produce fewer but broader flashes, closer to an old-fashioned Victorian diamond. Neither is better; they simply look different, and photographs rarely make it clear which you are getting, so always ask.

Princess cut

A square with four sharp, uncut corners and straight sides. Also a brilliant cut, with a distinctive facet pattern that produces a crisp, geometric sparkle and often flashes of colour. Modern, sharp and architectural.

Side by side

	Cushion cut	Princess cut
Outline	Square with rounded corners, curved sides	Square with sharp 90-degree corners
Character	Soft, romantic, vintage-leaning	Crisp, modern, geometric
Sparkle	Glittery crushed ice, or broad antique flashes	Sharp, bright, strongly directional
Price per carat	Higher	Lower — usually the better value
Face-up size for the weight	Smaller; cushions hold weight in depth	Smaller; princess cuts are also deep
Durability	Rounded corners are naturally protected	Sharp corners are the weak point and need covering
Hides colour and inclusions	Very well	Well, though corners can show colour

Size: neither shape gives you much face-up area

Carat measures weight, not size — one carat is 0.2 grams. Millimetres (mm) measure length across the top of the stone, which is what your eye actually registers.

Both cushions and princess cuts are cut deep, storing a good share of their weight below the girdle where the setting hides it. That means both look smaller from above than a round or an oval of the same weight.

Carat weight	Cushion (typical)	Princess (typical)	Round (for comparison)
0.50 ct	4.9 x 4.9mm	4.4 x 4.4mm	5.0mm
1.00 ct	5.5 x 5.5mm	5.5 x 5.5mm	6.5mm
1.50 ct	6.5 x 6.5mm	6.3 x 6.3mm	7.4mm
2.00 ct	7.0 x 7.0mm	7.0 x 7.0mm	8.1mm
3.00 ct	8.0 x 8.0mm	8.0 x 8.0mm	9.3mm

Note the corner-to-corner distance is greater than the side measurement on a square stone, so both shapes do look wider than a plain reading of the table suggests. Still, if maximum visible diamond per pound is your priority, an emerald, oval or pear cut will beat either of these.

Which should you choose?

Choose a cushion if you like softness, warmth and a slightly antique feel, or if you are buying a stone with a lower colour grade — cushions are excellent at disguising a warm tint. They also pair well with halos and vintage-style settings.

Choose a princess if you want something sharp and contemporary, or if value per carat is the deciding factor. A princess will generally get you more weight for the same budget.

One practical warning about princess cuts: those four sharp corners are the most vulnerable points on any diamond. A princess cut must be set with the corners properly protected, usually by V-shaped claws that wrap over each point. It is a solved problem, but it is not optional.

What we stock, honestly

We hold cushion cuts in stock. We do not currently stock princess cut rings. Rather than point you at something that is not a princess and hope you do not notice, here is the straight position: if you want a princess cut, we make it bespoke, with no extra design cost. You pay for the stone, the metal and the making. Send us the setting style you like and the carat weight you have in mind, and we will source certified princess cut options.

Our cushion cut pieces, prices correct at the time of writing:

• Bezel Cushion Cut Engagement Ring in Platinum — £904. The bezel is a rim of metal that wraps the whole edge of the stone. It is the most protective setting there is and it suits the cushion’s soft outline perfectly.
• Three Stone Cushion Cut Engagement Ring — £957. Flanking stones widen the ring along the finger and add sparkle without adding centre carat weight.

If it is the square, geometric look you are drawn to rather than the princess cut specifically, our Stackable Asscher Cut Wedding Band in Yellow Gold at £1,416 is worth a look. An Asscher is a square step cut — straight parallel facets rather than brilliant sparkle — and it gives you crisp geometry with a calmer, more architectural character.

Browse the full cushion cut collection or compare settings across our engagement rings.

Does any of this change for lab-grown diamonds?

The relationship between the shapes stays the same, because a lab-grown diamond is still a rough crystal that has to be sawn and polished by hand — same waste, same labour, same demand patterns. A lab-grown diamond is a real diamond with the same hardness, structure and sparkle as a mined one; it is simply grown in a controlled environment over weeks rather than forming underground. Everything we make is lab-grown, and every centre stone comes with a free IGI certificate.

Frequently asked questions

Is a cushion cut just an old-fashioned princess cut?

No, they are separate cuts with different facet patterns. Cushions do have older origins — they descend from the antique “old mine” cut — while the modern princess cut dates from the second half of the twentieth century.

Which looks bigger, a cushion or a princess?

At the same carat weight they are very close, with the cushion often marginally wider. Neither looks as large as a round, oval or emerald cut of the same weight, because both are cut deep.

Which is better for someone hard on their hands?

The cushion, comfortably. Rounded corners have nothing to snag or chip. If you love the princess look but work with your hands, ask for V-claws or a bezel and the risk drops sharply.

Can I put a princess cut in a vintage-style setting?

You can, and some people love the contrast, but the sharp corners can fight a soft, curvy design. A cushion usually sits more naturally in vintage settings.

How do I compare two quotes fairly?

Compare the certificates, not the marketing. Check carat weight, the actual millimetre measurements, colour, clarity, and the polish and symmetry grades. Two stones described as “1 carat cushion” can be very different objects.

If you are still torn, the best thing is to see both shapes in person. We hand-make everything in solid gold and platinum in North Harrow, London, deliver free and insured anywhere in the UK, and give you 30 days to return.