The question behind “how do I clean lab diamonds” is usually a slightly nervous one. People worry that a laboratory-grown stone is somehow more delicate, that harsh cleaning might damage it, or that it will fade or go cloudy over time in a way a mined diamond would not.

It will not. A lab-grown diamond is chemically and physically the same material as a mined one — pure carbon, hardness 10 on the Mohs scale. It needs exactly the same care, and it tolerates exactly the same cleaning. There is no special product, no special routine and nothing to be nervous about.

What does need thought is the setting: the metal, the claws, and the accent stones. That is where this guide focuses. If you want the basic step-by-step method, we cover it in how to clean a diamond ring at home.

Why lab-grown diamonds do not go cloudy

This myth is worth killing properly, because it puts people off.

Diamond does not degrade. It does not oxidise in air, absorb water, react with soap or lose its polish through wear. A lab-grown diamond is the same lattice of carbon atoms as a stone that formed 150 kilometres underground, and it behaves identically in every measurable way. Nothing in normal life changes it.

What genuinely happens is this. The underside of your ring — the pavilion, the part light enters and exits through — collects a film of hand cream, soap residue, cooking oil and skin grease. That film is where the sparkle goes. It builds up gradually, so you never notice the decline; you only notice the difference after a clean.

Every “my lab diamond went cloudy” story we have investigated has been this. Ten minutes in warm soapy water and it comes back.

The basic clean, in short

Step	What to do
1	Warm water — hand-hot, not boiling — with a few drops of ordinary washing-up liquid.
2	Soak for 20 to 30 minutes to soften the film.
3	Brush gently with a soft, clean toothbrush, paying attention to the underside of the stone.
4	Rinse in a bowl of clean water, never over an open plughole.
5	Dry and buff with a lint-free cloth. A microfibre or jeweller’s cloth is ideal.

Once a fortnight is plenty for a ring worn daily. The plughole warning is not a joke — it is by some distance the most common way people lose a ring at home. Put the plug in first, every single time.

Cleaning by setting type

How your stone is held decides how much care the cleaning needs.

Claw and solitaire settings

The easiest to clean because the stone is open underneath and water gets everywhere. Brush from below as well as above. While you have it in your hand, look closely at the claws — they are the part that wears, and a claw that has thinned or lifted is what precedes a lost stone. Something like our Solitaire Round Cut Engagement Ring in Platinum is straightforward to keep bright at home.

Halo and hidden halo settings

Small stones packed tightly around the centre create narrow channels where residue collects. These need patience with the brush and a proper rinse. Do not use a pin, cocktail stick or anything rigid to poke debris out — you will loosen a setting long before you dislodge the dirt.

Pavé and eternity bands

The most demanding. Dozens of tiny stones, each held by tiny beads of metal, with plenty of places for soap to dry into a white residue. Rinse far more thoroughly than feels necessary. A band such as the Stackable Round Cut Full Eternity Band repays a longer soak and a lighter brush.

Bezel settings

A rim of metal surrounds the stone, which protects it beautifully but traps residue at the join. Work the brush around the edge of the rim.

Cleaning by metal

• Platinum. Very tolerant. Develops a soft matte patina over years, which many people prefer; a jeweller can restore the high polish whenever you want.
• Yellow and rose gold. Soapy water only. Gold is softer than platinum and scratches more readily, so use a genuinely soft brush and avoid abrasive cloths or pastes.
• White gold. The important one. White gold is plated with rhodium to give it that bright white finish, and the plating wears off gradually — typically showing as a faint warm tone at the back of the band. It is normal, not a fault, and replating is a routine job every couple of years. Never use polishing cloths impregnated with abrasive on white gold; you will strip the plating faster.
• Sterling silver. Tarnishes in air. A silver polishing cloth handles it, but keep the cloth off the diamonds and off any plated surfaces.

What to avoid

• Bleach and chlorine. The genuine danger. Chlorine attacks the alloys in gold, weakening claws over time. Take rings off before swimming pools, hot tubs and bleach-based cleaning.
• Toothpaste and bicarbonate of soda. Both are abrasives. They will scratch gold and dull polished metal, whatever you read online.
• Boiling water and sudden temperature changes. Unnecessary and hard on the setting.
• Stiff brushes and metal tools. Soft toothbrush only.
• Ultrasonic cleaners at home. See below.

Are ultrasonic cleaners safe?

For a plain, well-made diamond ring in good condition, generally yes — that is what jewellers use. But an ultrasonic will not distinguish between dirt and a stone held by a worn claw, and it can shake loose anything that was already marginal. Home units also vary widely in quality.

Our advice: soapy water at home, ultrasonic only in a jeweller’s hands where someone checks the setting first. Note that if a ring contains any treated stone — a fracture-filled diamond, for example — ultrasonic cleaning can damage the treatment. That is not a concern with our rings, because every centre stone we set is untreated, but it is worth knowing if you own older pieces.

Habits that matter more than cleaning

Most damage is not dirt. It is impact and chemistry.

• Put your ring on after moisturiser, perfume, hairspray and sun cream, not before.
• Take it off for the gym, gardening, DIY and lifting anything heavy. A knock that bends a claw does not announce itself.
• Take it off for swimming — chlorine and salt water both.
• Store rings separately, in a soft pouch or a lined box. Diamonds scratch gold and each other; a jumbled jewellery box is a scratching machine.
• Have the setting checked professionally about once a year. A jeweller will spot a thinning claw in seconds and retip it for very little. Losing a centre stone costs rather more.

Frequently asked questions

Do lab-grown diamonds need different cleaning products?

No. Warm water and washing-up liquid. There is no lab-grown-specific product, and any seller marketing one is selling you washing-up liquid at a markup.

Will my lab-grown diamond fade or lose its sparkle?

No. It cannot fade — colour in a diamond comes from its atomic structure, not from a coating. Lost sparkle is a dirty stone, every time.

Can I use a jewellery cleaning solution?

Yes, if it is a proprietary solution intended for diamonds and gold, and you follow the instructions. It will not outperform soapy water by much. Avoid anything containing ammonia on plated white gold.

How often should I have it professionally cleaned?

Once a year is a sensible rhythm, ideally combined with a setting check. Many jewellers will do a clean and inspection for very little or nothing.

Can a lab-grown diamond be repolished?

Yes. If a stone is ever chipped or scuffed at the edges, a cutter can repolish it exactly as with a mined diamond. It loses a little weight, but the option exists.

Keep it looking new

Every ring we make is hand-made in solid gold or platinum in North Harrow, London, set with an untreated lab-grown diamond and a free IGI certificate. Free insured UK delivery, 30-day returns, and bespoke design at no extra design cost.

Browse the engagement rings or the wedding rings and eternity bands. And if you have ever wondered whether the stone in your ring will still test as diamond years from now, it will — see do lab-grown diamonds test as real diamonds.